Salmon a la Conche

Today I'm feeling like having salmon for supper. Not just because I love salmon, but also because I'm reminded of a place where the best salmon I've ever had can be found. The place is Conche, a very historic and charming fishing community located on the eastern side of Newfoundland's great Northern Peninsula (and part of what was a section of Newfoundland known as "The French Shore"). My career as an archaeologist has given me many opportunities to travel to great places and meet and become friends with excellent people. One of those places is Conche, where I spent the better part of two summers digging for ancient Paleo-Eskimo artifacts, but also enjoying songs, stories, laughs, hikes and the rich history of the French Shore.

Yesterday and today, Conche has been in my mind more than usual as I have been listening to Conche Radio, a collaboration between the French Shore Historical Society and Memorial University _Grenfell Campus. If you're interested in the history and culture of Conche, the Northern Peninsula or Newfoundland I suggest you check it out as today is the last day. So as a tribute to this great place and its people, here a recipe for simply grilled or broiled salmon seasoned with salt, lemon and dill. I ate many a feeds of salmon during my time on the northern peninsula and I certainly hope to make it back there this summer for a few more! It's a wicked place to be.

Simple Broiled Salmon

I really can't eat enough seafood, especially when it's super fresh! One of my favorite things to eat is Atlantic salmon. Here is a quick, super simple way to prepare whole salmon fillets, a recipe that works just as well with smaller fillet portions or steaks, or pretty much any seafood for that matter.

Simple seasoning of kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper, a drizzle of olive oil and some fresh herbs from the garden such as dill or chives, and a good squeeze of fresh lemon once cooked, is all you need to be a master salmon chef. The key is not to overcook it. While salmon is pretty forgiving when it does come to being overcook, because of its fat content (healthy Omega-3 fats), it is exceptionally good when cooked just to the point of doneness.Many people actually prefer a touch of rawness in the center.When I cook my salmon, either by grill, broiler or frying, my goal is to cook it just to the point where the rawness in the center is down to a sliver or has just disappeared. Whatever method, I make sure the heat source is pretty hot. Depending on the thickness, I typically cook it about 4 minutes on side A and 3 minutes or less on side B, starting skin side down. I also love to get the skin crispy as it is quite tasty. Then I let it rest for a couple of minutes and when it hits the plate it is super juicy!

Wicked Good Newfoundland Seafood Chowder

I am always thinking about food. What to eat and how to cook it. Through food, A Wicked Scoff has allowed me to blend my Newfoundland culture and heritage with my newly found New England influences and excursions.

When thinking of a meal to share with Downhome Magazine as a column featuring A Wicked Scoff for the January issue (http://www.downhomelife.com), I was drawn to seafood chowder. Here in New England, chowder is king and a variety of “chowda’s” as they say, namely clam, cod, and lobster, can be found in every restaurant and diner. Simply put, chowder is the ultimate east coast comfort food. One of the best chowders I ever had was at a Vermont ski chalet where it was served in a bread bowl. To me, nothing says comfort and warmth like sitting in front of a roaring fire with a piping bowl of rich, creamy chowder filled with succulent seafood. With all the seafood available in Newfoundland, such as cod, salmon, shrimp and scallops, chowder would make the perfect winter meal. Whether you choose to make this recipe as a first course for you New Year’s Eve dinner party, or back home after a day out snowmobiling or ice fishing, this chowder promises to satisfy. When you’re done I hope you can say it was a wicked scoff!
  

Wicked Good Seafood Chowder

Ingredients:

·         2 pounds cod

·         1 pound each of salmon and shrimp (medium)

·         ½ pound of scallops

·         2 cups each of onion, celery, and carrots, diced

·         5 medium potatoes, diced

·         2 - 32 oz cartons seafood stock (or use homemade)

·         2 ½ sticks butter

·         1 ½ cups flour

·         2 cups heavy cream

·         6 cups whole milk

·         1 Tbsp Savory

·         salt and pepper

Directions:

In a large stockpot, melt ½ a stick of butter over medium heat, and
sauté the onion, celery and carrots for 5 minutes. Season with a little salt and black pepper. Add remaining butter and the flour and using a wooden spoon, stir the butter and flour together to make a paste (a roux), which will thicken the chowder. Cook the roux for a minute and increase the heat to medium high. Gradually add the two cartons of seafood stock, stirring as you go. Make sure to stir out any lumps that may have formed in the roux. Add the potatoes and simmer for about 10 minutes. Add the heavy cream and the milk, and return the chowder to a low simmer. It is now important not to boil the chowder, as the dairy may curdle. For Newfoundland twist, add dried savory. As a trick to prevent heartburn, which some complain of from savory, rub the herbs in the palm of your hand to break it into smaller pieces. Cut the cod and salmon into 1-inch chunks, quarter the scallops and de-vein and remove the shells from the shrimp. Once the chowder begins to thicken, add the seafood to the pot and stir occasionally. Cook for approximately 10 more minutes on a gentle simmer until the chowder has thickened, the potatoes are tender, and the seafood is cooked. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust seasoning accordingly. Ladle into bowls or homemade bread boules, and top with crackers. A few scrucnhins on top wouldn’t go astray either! This will make a big pot of chowder, and will feed a crowd. I find is even tastier the next day and you will want leftovers. Enjoy!

Broiled Salmon Fillet with lemon and dill

I really can't eat enough seafood, especially when it's super fresh! One of my favorite things to eat is Atlantic salmon. Here is a quick, super simple way to prepare whole salmon fillets, a recipe that works just as well with smaller fillet portions or steaks, or pretty much any seafood for that matter.

Simple seasoning of kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper, a drizzle of olive oil and some fresh herbs from the garden such as dill or chives, and a good squeeze of fresh lemon once cooked, is all you need to be a master salmon chef. The key is not to overcook it. While salmon is pretty forgiving when it does come to being overcook, because of its fat content (healthy Omega-3 fats), it is exceptionally good when cooked just to the point of doneness.Many people actually prefer a touch of rawness in the center.When I cook my salmon, either by grill, broiler or frying, my goal is to cook it just to the point where the rawness in the center is down to a sliver or has just disappeared. Whatever method, I make sure the heat source is pretty hot. Depending on the thickness, I typically cook it about 4 minutes on side A and 3 minutes or less on side B, starting skin side down. I also love to get the skin crispy as it is quite tasty. Then I let it rest for a couple of minutes and when it hits the plate it is super juicy!

Grilled Salmon and Vegetables

With spring in the air and warmer temperatures, it's nice get outside after a long day's work inside, and enjoy the fresh air. It's also a great time to cook and eat outdoors, and extend your time outside, instead of in the kitchen. I think too often we save the grill for weekend or just hamburgers and hot dogs, when in fact grilling provides many opportunities and benefits. It cuts down on dishes, it adds great texture and flavor, and it is especially apt to quick cooking times, a must for work week meals. As you will continue to learn about me as you follow this blog, I use my grill a lot, all year long...even through or long snowy winter in upstate New York, not unlike parts of Newfoundland. I use it for most every kind of protein...beef, pork, chicken, some fish and shellfish, and lots of veggies too.

Grilled Salmon with Asparagus and Eggplant

For the vegetables, the prep work is simple and can be done quickly.

For the asparagus, wash and trim the tough stalk end. I bend one to see where it breaks, if they are all about the same thickness, I line them up and cut off all the end at once, up to the break on the snap test. For thick spears, I peel the outer part with a vegetable peeler. The ends may be saved in a freezer bag and used in your next soup stock.
Bring a large enough pot of salted water to a boil, and partially cook (blanch) the asparagus for 5 minutes. remove blanched asparagus to a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and help them retain a bright green colour. When you are ready to grill them, dry them with a towel and season with a little olive oil, salt and pepper.

For the eggplant, simply trim the ends, and slice into rounds, about a centimeter thick. before grilling, brush each side with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

For the salmon, I suggest using a half pound per person. Leave the skin on (remove scales) and season portions with olive oil, salt and pepper. For this meal I added some lemon grill seasoning, but I often switch it up with one of my homemade spice rubs (e.g. Cajun, southwest, blackening, etc) or use some Old Bay Seasoning.

Preheat the grill on high for 5 minutes and give it a spray with cooking spray or wipe it down with an oiled paper towel. Add the salmon, skin side down, and cook for 4 minutes. As tempting as it may be, do not try and move the salmon, especially if it is stuck. It will release itself. After 4 minutes, flip and continue to cook for another 3-4 minutes, depending on the thickness. I usually allow for 8 minutes per inch, but it really depends on your taste. I like my salmon the moment the rawness leaves the flesh, while my wife likes a hint of raw flesh through the middle, and some like it more raw, or more cooked. What ever you do, do not cook it so much that it becomes dry. Remember, the fish will continue to cook internally once you remove it from the heat. If you are new to grilling (or broiling) salmon, this will take a little trial and error to get it down to a science, but that is one of the fun thing's about cooking...learning as you go. When you remove your fish, season it with a touch of salt and a squeeze of lemon.

While the salmon is cooking, you can also cook the vegetables, as they do not take long at all. Begin with the eggplant. Brush each side with the oil, season it, and lay over the hot grill. Cook until they have nice grill marks and flip. The asparagus will only take a few minutes since they have been blanched, so you can add them once you flip the salmon. Using tongs, mix the asparagus with the oil and lay on the grill. Be careful not to let them burn, and rotate them every so often.

Once the veggies are are cooked, I like to season them. For this meal I used freshly grated Parmesan cheese and smoked paprika. Served with a cold glass of beer (golden lager) or chardonnay, and this meal will impress your family/friends and satisfy your taste buds.